What is the most effective way to relax hair with Motions relaxers?
Even if you've done the client's hair before, check the hair's elasticity and porosity to make certain it's still healthy enough to relax. Hair should be completely dry before proceeding. Start by basing the hairline and scalp. Then, follow these steps:
1. Divide the hair into four sections. Begin applying the Motions relaxer in the most resistant area, which is usually the back crown. Take a small sub-section and use a brush or the back of the comb to apply the relaxer. Work ΒΌ-inch away from the scalp to the ends. Note: To avoid over-processing, only apply relaxer onto new hair growth or virgin hair. If necessary, protect previously relaxed hair with conditioner.
2. Complete the quadrant, then move on to the next section. Work in a clockwise pattern, applying the relaxer to subsections. Once the back is completed, move to the front and continue until relaxer has been applied to all the hair.
3. Return to the starting point where you began applying the relaxer. Using the back of a comb against your gloved hand, smooth the hair from roots to ends. Repeat this procedure on all the sections. Follow the application pattern, so you work from the crown down, then to the front.
4. After all the hair has been smoothed, check the first section. The strand should not buckle against the scalp when lifted.
5. Follow the Timing Guide on the relaxer instructions and make sure you do not over-process the hair. When you reach the desired degree of relaxing, rinse the relaxer thoroughly from hair with warm water. Condition and shampoo with the appropriate neutralizing shampoo and conditioner paired with the Motions relaxer used.
How long should I wait to perform a relaxer retouch?
Clients often want a relaxer as soon as they see a tiny bit of regrowth. To keep hair healthy, relaxing should be performed every 6 to 8 weeks, when there is almost an inch of regrowth.
How do I test the hair's porosity and tensile strength?
To check porosity, comb a small section of hair straight up. Hold the ends firmly with two fingers, while you slide the fingers of your other hand down the strands, from ends to roots.
If your fingers meet resistance or if the cuticle ruffles up, the hair is porous. The more it ruffles, the greater the porosity. You can also spritz hair with water: if it absorbs the water fast, it's porous.
To test the hair's strength, hold a single strand near the base with one hand, and below the mid-shaft with the other. (Don't hold the very end, which is naturally weaker.) Then pull until it breaks. Dry hair should stretch about 20% of its length before it breaks. Wet hair can stretch 40 to 50% of its length before breaking. If the hair breaks before it stretches this much, it's weak. Repeat the test on 2-3 different parts of the head. Visibly check the ends.
How can I safely color already relaxed hair?
Since hair is very fragile just after relaxing, it's best to wait at least two weeks after relaxing the hair, then use a semi-permanent color product. If you color the hair first, relax at least two weeks after you have applied color to your client's hair. We do not recommend applying a relaxer to bleached hair to avoid hair loss and breakage.
My client's hair is dry. What's the safest way to heat style it?
Instead of using a pressing comb with a temperature that can't be controlled easily, use one of the newer flat irons with ceramic plates, as well as tourmaline and ionic technology. These tools have controllable thermostats and smooth the hair quickly without depleting all its moisture. Avoid temperatures over 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not press or straighten damp hair. Prep the hair with CPR Triple Action Leave-In Conditioner or CPR Anti-Breakage Hair Lotion for extra protection. Divide hair into fine sections and work quickly.
Check back soon for more styling tips and advice from our Motions Experts! Got questions not answered here or suggestions of your own? Email us at askourexperts@motionshair.com. We may feature your tip (and credit your genius of course) in our next update!
